Eden perches with some degree of isolation on a clifftop, surveying a wide open expanse of ocean with a sense of ambiguity not often felt in country communities. In the 21st century Eden is known as a perfect whale-watching spot, however, it's history is also firmly entrenched in a dark whaling mythology that is so unique that the town dare not ignore it.
Nicole and I came here because I was drawn to the bizarre story of Eden's whaling industry. We booked a room at the other end of Twofold Bay in 'Boydtown', not realising that this building - the Seahorse Inn - had its own strange past as well.
My first stop in Eden was the above memorial to those from the town who died in service to Australia during our 20th century wars. In travelling across Australia the one thing I've noticed that consistently appears in rural and coastal communities is some kind of ANZAC memorial, evidence of a shared cultural identity that goes beyond our media. Eden's pristine monument to the soldiers sits high up on the town's summit near its churches.
Mary MacKillop Hall was once a schoolhouse that was built following the death of MacKillop's mother, Flora MacKillop. Saint Mary visited the schoolhouse twice, in 1899 and 1901, out of appreciation for the care that the town of Eden demonstrated in recovering her mother's body after she was lost at sea.
Flora MacKillop was one of 71 lives infamously lost during the wreck of the Ly-ee-Moon, a former opium transport steamship from China that broke up during a storm off nearby Green Cape in 1886.
The inside of the Hall remains a shrine to Mary MacKillop, who was canonised by the Catholic Church as Australia's first (and so far only) saint in 2010. Catholic-Australians make the pilgrimage here to pay their respects. I know this is true because I saw some.
The view outside of Mary MacKillop Hall is quite breathtaking.
The Eden Killer Whale Museum is one of the main attractions in Eden and features two storeys of whaling-related local history. While Nicole and I visited we saw at least 50 other people in there, making this one of the busiest 'local history' museums I have ever seen.
The centrepiece of the museum is 'Old Tom', the alpha Killer Whale who assisted Eden whalers in their brutal hunting of baleen whale species (predominantly Southern Right and Humpback Whales, and the occasional Blue Whale) in the early 20th century. The local narrative is one of Old Tom and a pod of five other Killer Whales attaching themselves to Eden's whaling families to help them kill the bigger whales. The story says that these Orcas would round up and harry the larger baleen whales into range of the harpoons. The bigger whales would then be killed by the humans and left to Old Tom and his pod, who would rip off the whale's lips and tongue and take them deep under the surface for feasting upon (these organs are huge and are all the Killer Whales were interested in). Such was Old Tom's eagerness and intelligence that he would swim into Twofold Bay to meet the humans early in the morning and grab the ropes of their boats, dragging them out to where the baleen whales could be found.
It's the only known case of Killer Whales working with humans in this way. In 1930, Old Tom was found dead and floating in the bay - he had apparently come in to Twofold Bay to die near the human community there. His massive 7 metre-long skeleton was salvaged and preserved, and the Killer Whale Museum grew around him as the whaling industry in Eden disappeared. He remains as a terrifying ode to a dark past, the teeth on one side of his skull filed down from the wear of the rope he would grasp between his jaws.
Nicole was less interested in the museum than I was.
There is a section of the museum dedicated to Eden's original inhabitants, the Thaua people, however, I couldn't help but think a bigger acknowledgement of their history could have been made. The reason behind the extraordinary behaviour of the Killer Whales of this area is most likely tied to the Thaua, who had a special relationship with the Killer Whales that stretched back thousands of years. In the Thaua language these animals were referred to as 'beowas', which translates as 'brothers'. All of the whaling families in Eden 'employed' local Aboriginal men to work their boats in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Scrimshaw is the art of engraving objects out of ivory or whale bone. The ornate figures above demonstrate the intricacy of this disturbing art.
The parking demarcations outside of the Killer Whale Museum demonstrate the town's maritime heritage in a fun way.
Further out of Eden, The Blue Wren Cafe sources the vast majority of its food onsite, demonstrating the 'slow food' ethos associated with lessening one's carbon footprint. This cafe is part of Potoroo Palace, an animal sanctuary located a few kilometres north of Pambula. The park is predominantly known for its care and healing of rescued Australian animals, and for a potoroo-breeding program that supplies these little macropods to wildlife parks all around the country.
This is Trevor, a rescued Brush Tail Possum who is quite happy to move around in the day if there's weetbix and carrot in it for him.
The sanctuary has a collection of Emus that have been raised from chicks. They are currently 4 years old and some of them have had to be separated because they've taken to fighting each other. The picture above shows two Emus that kept running over to the fence to kick at the bird on the other side. The solitary Emu on the right was nonchalant and calm the whole time, pretending that he wasn't fazed by the aggression of the two bullies.
Nicole and I also ducked up to Bega to check out the cheese factory. The upper floor of the Bega Heritage Centre featured a range of dairy-related historical paraphernalia and an animatronic cow that just shook loudly rather than actually moving.
There was also this weird eight-legged cow. The cheese of the future? I'm thinking this genetically-modified monstrosity could be called 'the Bovine Centipede'.
I have to say that I wasn't completely sold on the Bega cheese experience. It's not like they have an amazingly large range - they know what they do well and they've stuck to it, growing a nationally-recognised brand and no doubt boosting the economy of the surrounding town - but I'm just not a huge fan of their cheese. That said, they did have some canned cheese that they use for international export, which was mildly interesting.
Another view of Twofold Bay. Note the mountains and forest in the distance - this area is not very densely populated at all.
The pictures above show Seahorse Inn, our accommodation. This elaborate castle-like building was constructed in 1843 just a few kilometres south of Eden in 'Boydtown'. It was envisioned by British stockbroker Benjamin Boyd as the first part of a whole new town and business empire, which he dreamt would become the future capital of the New South Wales colony. He built the Seahorse Inn, a nearby church (which burned down 50 years later in a bushfire) and a privately-owned lighthouse a few more kilometres south (modestly called 'Boyd Tower').
To get to Boyd Tower you need to drive another twenty minutes south and then access the coastline via an unsealed road. From here it's a short walk out onto the escarpment. On our way out we saw a shy and diminutive Swamp Wallaby watching us from between two trees; evidence of how forgotten this part of the world seems. As we got closer to the end of the bluff we spotted the tower rising up out of the bushland like some ancient, half-hidden ruin.
Boyd wanted his tower to serve as a lighthouse, but the government wouldn't sign off on its use so it became a lookout to assist in spotting whales for the local whaling industry.
Like the Seahorse Inn and much else of the would-be capital city, Boyd's Tower was built from an expensive form of sandstone that was brought all the way down from Sydney rather than sourced more locally. Boyd also resorted to using slave labour via the highly dubious practise of 'blackbirding', in which Islanders were kidnapped and brought to Australia as indentured workers. Despite his ambition and apparent ruthlessness, Boyd's empire collapsed in financial ruin and failure before he could attract settlers. By the late 1840s he had run off to California to try and make his fortune in the great American gold rush.
The tower remains as a sign of his folly.
Ironically though, just a few hundred metres from the Seahorse Inn, a collection of 15 upmarket coastal houses have sprung up in a little estate that started just a year ago. It's taken nearly 180 years but it looks like Boydtown is finally happening for real, complete with the name of the entrepreneur still attached.
Eden has a population of just over 3000 people and it's busiest time of year is the end of winter when whales can be regularly seen. The town has a siren that it sounds whenever these mighty creatures are spotted so that any locals or visitors can quickly get to a lookout or the beach. It's a curiously benign industry for a place that once teamed up with one of nature's most notorious predators to drive some of the world's biggest animals to the brink of extinction, and the community's rich history of ambition, shipwrecks, and whaling makes it a uniquely intriguing and vaguely macabre destination for the curious.
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